Dooars in Rain-5 [Concluding]
**Dooars in Rain - 5 [concluding]
Early in the morning at 6 AM, Kuntal woke me up for a walk. The deep forest of Neora Valley at Sultanekhole at that hour was a world apart! Although the sun had risen at this part, its rays barely penetrated the dense canopy. Unknown birds were busy gathering twigs and food, their chirping filling the cool, serene morning air. The interplay of light and shade in the deep jungle, as the sun's rays filtered through, created a mesmerising, otherworldly atmosphere. We crossed the narrow footbridge, where I noticed the crystal-clear water of the thin river below.
Kuntal, standing knee-deep in the water, attempted some challenging poses in the shallow stream. The murmuring sound of the flowing water added another layer of tranquility to this morning. Meanwhile, Pijush joined us and proposed that we walk one kilometre down to the market place where we can have another round of morning tea.
Breakfast was delayed, igniting a lively debate between our self-appointed location director, Kuntal, who had taken charges since Malbazar Beer shop, and our tour director, Debanu, about where should we stay tonight [the 29th]. After a spirited exchange of colorful language from both sides, Kuntal finally managed to convince Debanu to spend the night at a resort on the Jayanti riverbank, tucked away in the Buxa forest. When they turned to me for my opinion, I simply pointed to Pijush. In response, Kuntal asked Pijush, who then nonchalantly gestured toward a massive fern tree, as if declaring that the fern tree had the final say!
Our destination was over 70 kilometers away, so we had to hurry. Kuntal insisted we visit the Murti River waterfall on the way, but given how late it was, we decided to skip it. At 2:10 PM, we finally reached the entry point to the Jayanti river! To our surprise—especially Kuntal’s—the riverbank for the first time was closed for the monsoon season and would only reopen on September 15th, along with the rest of the Buxa forest.
Kuntal and Debanu, both seasoned businessmen, tried their best to “negotiate” with the forest department guys, using their finest forensic persuasion techniques—but they failed miserably to the jerky forest guards! Amidst the confusion, I suggested we prioritize the most important task: lunch - “Let’s eat first, then we’ll figure out where to go,” I proposed. The driver, with impeccable timing, recommended a good restaurant nearby, and we all agreed that a full stomach might just inspire our next move!
[Pagla Baba Dhaba in Alipurduar city is a hidden gem. The food is tasty, served in brass utensils, and the modest staff ensures you’re well taken care of—all at a very reasonable price.]
With our bellies full and spirits high, we set out to find a place to stay, trying a few hotels around Alipurduar. The dhaba boy, on my quest, recommended 'Maa Resort,' just 12 kilometers away, right next to the Buxa forest line. Since we had a train to catch the next day from Alipurduar Junction, Debanu wanted to stay close to the city. But Kuntal and I insisted on checking out the resort—a decision that later turned out to be spot on, besides it was only 5 kilometres from the station!
Maa Resort is nestled right beside the Buxa forest, with tea gardens enveloping the other three sides. The jungle area in front of the resort’s main entrance is an open playground for elephants, who roam freely quite often. It was as if we had booked front-row seats to nature’s wildest show!
The resort also features a small swimming pool and a towering watchtower for observing the jungle from above! The photo above was taken from that very tower. The surrounding jungle is teeming with various trees, including the Jarul tree [see pic], known for its small, medicinal fruits and valuable timber.
A nearby spot, Siquahora, is worth visiting. A shallow canal, or jhora, winds deep into the forest for kilometers. Boat rides are available, but with the sun beating down on us at full blast, we decided not to risk it.
It’s now 11 AM, and our train departs at 2 PM before that we have to take lunch.
...
Experiencing Dooars in the rain is something every bengali should do at least once in their lifetime. But what truly made this trip unforgettable was sharing it with friends I’ve known since I was knee-high to a grasshopper—people I once knew, and now, through the lens of my matured understanding, rediscovering in entirely new ways.
It’s an experience that will stay with me forever.
[end]
Somnath Bera
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