Kashmir trip - April'2025

🌸 A Memorable Trip to Kashmir - April 2025

Nupur (also known as Kuntal) and I have been friends since our school days. We studied together at Shibpur Dinobundhu Institution up to Class X, after which life took us along different paths. He chose the commerce stream, while I pursued science and engineering.

[Hotel Whitehouse on the bank of Lidder river]

After graduation, Nupur joined his family business, while I started my career at NTPC, treating the whole of India as my home. Over the next 37 years, I moved from one state to another — from Delhi to Kerala, Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Uttar Pradesh, and finally retired from a plant in Jharkhand.

Throughout these years, we stayed connected over phone calls. Our spouses became familiar too, and whenever I visited Howrah, we made it a point to meet. We had once planned a family trip to Himachal Pradesh way back in 2010, but unfortunately, Nupur fell sick at the last moment, and the trip was called off.

This time, however, there was no stopping us! We set our hearts on the Kashmir Valley — and finally made it happen.

Thus, it all began on 16th April 2025, when two old school friends — Nupur and I — along with our better halves and his son, embarked on an adventure we had dreamed of for years: My daughter is married off and is in US now therefore, she could not join.

Kashmir – The Paradise on Earth! We had also planned to visit few offbeat gems — Gurez Valley, Lolab Valley & Doodh patri — tucked away in Kashmir’s untouched beauty. But little did we know that fate had a different script waiting for us.

On 22nd April, just when we were about to visit the stunning Baisaran Valley, a terrible tragedy struck — terrorists attacked and killed 26 innocent tourists. The heartbreaking incident shook the entire region and the country as a whole! Subsequently, most tourist spots were closed as a security measure, and with heavy hearts, we decided to cut short our journey by five days and return home early.

Sometimes, you realize how unpredictable life can be — what begins with dreams of snow-capped peaks can change in an instant, reminding us to treasure every moment we get. Nonetheless what we visited was not less at least we got the taste of how beautiful Kashmir really is…

We boarded the Howrah-Delhi Rajdhani Express, buzzing with excitement and endless chatter about snow, mountains, and wazwan feasts. Delhi arrived quicker than we realized, and without wasting much time, we hopped onto the sleek Vande Bharat Express bound for Jammu, racing eagerly toward new memories.

Jammu: A Midnight Hotel Hunt!

We reached Jammu at 10 PM sharp on 17th April — full of energy but clueless about where we would sleep! Turns out, finding a hotel room with two double beds at night in Jammu is like hunting for a needle in a haystack. After two hours of roaming around with sleepy eyes and heavy bags, we finally crashed into Hotel Grand Inn. ₹4000 per room felt heavy for just a good for a good night’s sleep!

18th April: 7AM :The Road to Srinagar

The next morning, with fresh spirits (and a few stiff backs!), we zoomed off towards Srinagar — a six-hour road trip that was anything but boring. The road curled through lush valleys, threading its way through endless tunnels, each one longer and grander than the last.

After crossing the Banihal Tunnel and entering the Anantanag district (NH-44, which stretches all the way to Kanyakumari), the landscape changed dramatically with just 90 km left to Srinagar. The air turned crisper and cooler, the sky became a flawless blue, and the majestic snow-capped mountains drew closer, lining the road like royal sentinels. At one point, a section of NH-44 has been ingeniously converted into an airstrip, complete with an air traffic control setup — serving as a strategic emergency airport when needed.

One of the highlights of the journey was witnessing the marvels of engineering and nature side by side — from winding mountain roads to the impressive tunnels like the 11 km-long Nashri Tunnel. Each stretch brought its own charm and excitement. In hindsight, choosing a one-way road trip turned out to be a great decision, especially since our return was planned by flight from Srinagar.

By around 2 PM, we finally rolled into the Srinagar city. After checking into the hotel and enjoying a relaxed, satisfying lunch at Bristo around 3:30 PM, we were ready to begin our Kashmiri explorations!

Shankaracharya Temple: Stairway to Heaven! Our first outing was the Shankaracharya Temple, perched on a hilltop like a secret hideout of the gods. Climbing 250 stairs was no joke — we huffed and puffed — but the reward? A jaw-dropping view of the Dal Lake that felt like stepping into a postcard and the peaceful Shiva temple at the top — simply divine!

19th April: The day started with a steady drizzle, and our plan was to explore the gems of Srinagar — the famous Tulip Garden, the Mughal Gardens (like Nishat Bagh), a Shikara ride on Dal Lake, and more. We had a car reserved exclusively for us right from Jammu until our departure from Srinagar — ready to roll at our beck and call.

But as the rain intensified, Nupur suggested we skip the Tulip Garden and instead head straight to the Chashme Shahi Waterfall. However, thanks to my wife’s stubborn insistence on visiting the Tulip Garden, we changed course and veered toward it — umbrellas in hand and fingers crossed!

And, as luck would have it, just as we reached the garden, the rain stopped, almost as if nature was welcoming us. Although about 50% of the tulips had withered, what remained was enough to leave us absolutely stunned. A vibrant carpet of colors stretched out before us, and for a moment, we forgot all about the earlier gloom.

Mughal Gardens: Srinagar proudly boasts two famous Mughal gardens — Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh. Our first stop was Nishat Bagh — a breathtaking garden built in 1632 by the father of Nur Jahan (who was also Emperor Shahjahan’s father-in-law). Spread across a hill slope overlooking the magnificent Dal Lake, the garden is laid out on 12 terraced steps, each symbolises a zodiac sign & lined with towering Chinar trees and blooming with vibrant flowering plants.

A majestic central water channel, fed by powerful fountains, runs gracefully down the terraces, finally merging into the eastern edge of Dal Lake. At sun set, the entire lake shimmered in golden hues, offering a view so stunning that words can hardly capture it. Interestingly, this serene eastern side is out of bounds for the bustling shikaras and houseboats — leaving the view absolutely tranquil.

By afternoon, it was not gardens, but food that became the hero of the day. At the legendary Ahdoos Restaurant in Lal Chowk, we finally met Kashmir’s culinary treasures:

• Gushtaba (soft, juicy meatballs cooked in a rich yogurt gravy)

• Tabak Maaz (crispy, golden-fried lamb ribs)

• Rogan Josh (soft lamb curry)

Our plates turned into battlefields of flavors, and we surrendered — happily and hungrily!

Sikara ride on Dal lake:

In the evening, just before sunset, we finally lived our dream — a shikara ride on the magical Dal Lake. The lake was abuzz with countless shikaras gliding gently across the water, each carrying wide-eyed tourists like us.

And guess what? You could simply wave your hand, and a floating vendor would row right up to you! Craving a hot tea or coffee? A chicken roll? An Ice cream? Even a mobile hookah bar? Everything was just a shikara away. It felt like an entire floating marketplace — bustling, colorful, and full of life — right in the middle of the lake!

[Nishat Garden]

We even heard that every morning between 5 AM and 7 AM, a mobile vegetable market sets up on the lake, with vendors trading fresh produce from their boats. Dal Lake isn’t just a lake — it’s a living, breathing world of its own.

20th April: Snowy Gulmarg:

The next day was reserved for Gulmarg, to soak in the magic of snowy mountains and alpine meadows. The car ride took about three hours to reach the base point, but here came the first surprise — despite having our own reserved vehicle, we were forced to hire a local jeep for the final stretch. (Yes, you could call it a “mandatory contribution” to the local economy — a polite way of describing what felt a lot like a scam!)

[Gulmerg ]

Bouncing along in the local dilapidated jeep, we reached the Gondola station, only to find a massive queue snaking around.Two hours [ a 10 minutes ride with transfer capacity of 1500 persons per hour] of slow, foot-numbing wait later, we finally boarded the gondola car. While the queue tested our patience, the reward was worth every second! The Phase-II ride to the higher altitude was sadly cancelled due to technical issues that day. But even the Phase-I journey, taking us up to 2,500 meters, was an unforgettable experience!

Floating over majestic pine trees, snow-draped slopes, and frozen streams, the gondola slowly climbed toward a dreamland. At the top, a vast plateau unfolded — after an initial 100 meters of grassy patch, it was a world blanketed in sparkling white snow.

Families laughed and played, snowballs flew in the air, children went sledging down the gentle slopes, and adventurous souls tried their hand at skiing. Gulmarg had turned into a giant winter carnival, and we were right in the middle of it!

On the return we visited the beautiful golf course, Skiing range and Maharaja Hari Sing’s palace.

21st April: Sindh River Songs at Sonmarg

Our car cruised through the newly constructed Z-Morh Tunnel (6.4 km) and glided alongside the gurgling Sindh River, heading towards Sonmarg. The icy Thajiwas Glacier beckoned from a distance, but unfortunately, the access roads were closed to protect it from pollution. The only way to reach was by pony rides over narrow and slippery trails. However, none of us felt comfortable taking the risk, so we decided instead to drive 19 kilometers further ahead — towards Baltal, where the glaciers dazzled from every direction.

[Amarnath ...17km away]

Again, we had to leave our own vehicle and hire a local one at an exorbitant price — and if that wasn’t enough, for the last 3 kilometers, we had to hire a second vehicle, paying yet another premium! But all complaints melted away when we arrived: the area was simply magical. The mighty Sindh River flowed beneath the sprawling glaciers, sometimes visible, sometimes disappearing mysteriously under thick sheets of ice. Standing there, wrapped in the icy breeze, it was hard not to dream about trekking to the famous Amarnath Shrine, just 17 kilometers away from here!

[Baltal ]

22nd–24rd April: Pahalgam’s Quiet Charm

The pinnacle of our trip was Pahalgam, which reached its peak and then slumped in just one and a half hours! Our hotel, Whitehouse, located about three hours from Srinagar, was a pre-booked, picturesque, idyllic retreat on the banks of the Lidder River.

We set out at 9 AM from Srinagar. There was heavy traffic on the way. En route, we spent about an hour at an apple orchard, where we drank fresh apple juice and bought delicious apple jams and pickles. Before reaching Pahalgam, we were all talking about visiting Baisaran meadow before checking into the hotel.

Accordingly, we made plans. But upon learning that the only way to reach the valley was via horse ride, my wife decided to get off at the hotel — and the remaining 3 or 4 of us, possibly Mrs. Nupur too, preferred to stay back as well. Let me add, these narrow penny trail roads are very steep and rough. The dung and other litter make them extremely slippery, making the walk highly uncomfortable. So, we headed straight to the hotel and checked in around 1:30 PM. In hindsight, had we gone directly to the valley, we might have gotten caught in the commotion that broke out soon after.

As luck would have it, after check-in, while everyone was preparing for the pony drivers to arrive for the trip to Baisaran Valley, I was casually strolling along the Lidder River, taking photographs. That’s when I first received news of an attack on my college WhatsApp group. At the same time, I noticed a helicopter started making repeated sorties from and to the Baisaran Valley, which was just a kilometre away out behind the hills. I later learned it was ferrying the injured to safety.

I showed the news to Nupur, and we returned to the hotel. Soon after, calls began pouring in from friends and family, checking in on us. Around 4 PM, the news of the terrorist attack had spread across the country. At that time, reports mentioned only one death, and there was no mention of targeted killings of Hindu tourists.

The hotel staff concealed the true reason and simply told us that the valley was closed to tourists due to VIP movements. But as night descended and more news poured in, we came to terms with the grim reality — it wasn’t one or two, but twenty six innocent hindu male tourists who were brutally murdered by the heartless terrorists.

The next day, there was a massive rush to leave the area—almost all tourists had checked out and left Pahalgam. A large-scale manhunt was underway, and popular tourist spots like Aru Valley, Betaab Valley, and Chandanwari were closed to visitors. Entry into Pahalgam itself was restricted. We decided to stay back next day which was also pre-booked, as there were extensive security checks on the road to Srinagar and a peaceful bandh had been called by all major political parties. Despite the tense atmosphere, the heavy presence of security forces made the area feel reasonably safe in the following days. Officials from the J&K Police and J&K Tourism also visited our hotel to check on the guests and ensure everyone’s safety.

As it no longer felt safe to remain in the valley, we cancelled all our remaining plans and advanced our return journey earliest available to the 26th, foregoing our original tickets for the 30th.

The next day, at 9 AM, we left Pahalgam on a somber note. The hotel staff and a few neighboring locals came to see us off, offering words of comfort and expressing deep sorrow over the tragic and unforeseen events.

The road to Srinagar was eerily deserted, with not a single tourist in sight. In less than two and a half hours, we reached Srinagar and checked into our hotel.

25th April: Wazwan Day!

Our hotel was located right in front of Ghat No. 6 on Dal Lake Road (Boulevard Avenue). The road was eerily deserted. Shikaras were all moored along the quayside, and kites swooped into the lake, catching fish. The few locals passing by didn’t appear to be tourists, and even the usually persistent touts seemed hesitant to approach us with offers for shikara rides or other excursions. By evening, the roadside market—entirely dependent on tourist footfall—shut down for the remaining days. The atmosphere felt uneasy and far from comforting. However, heavy security presence could be seen all along the road.

[Wular lake view]

We had two days to spend here before our flight on the 26th. Our tour operator recommended we visit the Kheer Bhawani Temple, Wular Lake, Mansar Lake, and Shalimar Bagh. He also insisted we try the authentic Kashmiri Wazwan meal at the Mughal Darbar restaurant in Lal Chowk whenever time permitted.

Amid heavy security, we entered the Kheer Bhawani Temple, where our IDs were checked at the gate. This is one of the oldest temples in Srinagar. The temple grounds are graced by towering Chinar trees—closely resembling maples—offering a majestic canopy. As prasad, we were served delicious kheer, which we all enjoyed.

From there, we proceeded to Wular Lake, the largest freshwater lake in the entire southeast region. Its banks are framed by the snow-capped peaks of the Pir Panjal range, reaffirming why Kashmir is called “heaven on earth.” The Wular Lake Park features several exotic trees unique to this region. On our way back, we halted at Mansar Lake, which lies close to Wular. The Mansar Park had only handful visitors, all observed under the vigilant eyes of security personnel. In fact, any time a small group formed, security would promptly move in—a common sight throughout the area.

We then made a quick stop at Shalimar Bagh, another iconic Mughal-era garden in Srinagar. Once a cherished location for Bollywood shoots between the 1960s and 1980s, the garden faded into obscurity during the insurgency of the late 1980s. Today, it is beautifully maintained. Here, we saw what is believed to be the oldest Chinar tree in Kashmir, reputedly 350 years old.

[Wular lake park]

Time flew by, and by 4 PM, we realized that our long-awaited Wazwan lunch was severely delayed. We rushed to “Mughal Darbar” in Lal Chowk, where all five of us finally indulged in an authentic half-Wazwan thali, served in the traditional Kashmiri style. Before serving, the waiter politely reminded us not to use spoons or forks, as true Wazwan is meant to be shared—eaten communally, by hand, from the same thali.

26th April: Farewell with a Prayer

Our direct flight to Kolkata was scheduled for 9:05 PM, which gave us ample time to explore a few more nearby places. While my wife chose to rest at the hotel, the four of us set out to visit the Hazratbal Dargah, where the peaceful energy of the shrine filled our hearts with calm. On the way, we passed by the serene and lesser-crowded Nigeen Lake—quiet, charming, and beautifully nestled beside the more famous Dal Lake.

Though our official checkout was at 12 PM, the hotelier kindly allowed us a relaxed departure, thanks to the absence of incoming guests. Anticipating heavy, multi-layered security checks on the way to the airport, we decided to leave early and departed at 3 PM.

Before heading out, we had lunch at Samiyana Restaurant near Ghat No. 4—without a doubt, one of the culinary highlights of our trip. The Gustabha, a signature dish of the Wazwan feast, was simply outstanding!

Our return flight to Kolkata came with some last-minute drama—due to turbulence, the aircraft circled the skies above the city for almost an hour. But when we finally touched down and reached home around 1:30 AM, our hearts were full, and our minds brimming with memories.

From snow-capped peaks to spicy Wazwan platters, from regal Mughal gardens to regions still reeling from violence—this trip wasn’t just a vacation. It became a memory etched forever. A journey of breathtaking beauty, poignant moments, and unsettling realities—marked by the heartbreaking shadow of a terrorist attack that took the lives of 26 innocent tourists. Amid the splendor, our hearts carried the weight of grief, reflection, and a thousand unforgettable stories.

Yet, even in sorrow, Kashmir cast its enduring spell on us. And we will return—not just to complete our journey, but to stand by this land that pulses in our collective heart. Gurez Valley, Lolab, Doodhpathri… so many places still call out to us. Because this is India—our India. This land belongs to all 1.3 billion of us, and no handful of terrorists can keep us apart for long. Our bond with Kashmir is deep, eternal, and unbreakable.

S. Bera

27/04/2025

Dal lake at Night before 22nd April